I expected to be overwhelmed by this spring, and while I had heard many stories of how lovely the Lodge is, I wasn’t expecting much from the building. Turns out I had it backwards!
Recent History of Wakulla Springs
This park is named for Edward Ball, a prominent Floridian until his death in 1981. You may do your own research, but I do not find much to admire in the way he lived his life, other than the ability to maintain fortunes. In death, however, he partially redeemed himself by leaving the vast majority of his estate the Nemours Foundation and stipulating that the money only be used in Florida. This estate included the 25-room Lodge at Wakulla Springs, built in 1937. Ball had been acquiring property along the Wakulla River since 1934. The Nemours board, however, could not make the property profitable, and in 1986, the State of Florida bought the Lodge and surrounding properties. This park is unlike Silver Springs, Cypress Gardens, Weeki Wachee, and other beautiful areas that were developed for profit and State as tourism changed in the Sunshine State. Wakulla Springs has remained undeveloped other than the Lodge, and this appears to be due to Ball’s efforts to retain the Springs as a refuge which reminded him of his childhood in Virginia (I find this heartwarming, as my own thoughts returned to my Maryland childhood as I walked some of the trails here). Somehow, the Park has managed to retain a diving platform, and we watched several kids doing backflips and cannonballs from that spot.
Challenges to the Health of Wakulla Springs
One of my favorite things about living in Central Florida is being surrounded by clear, cold, freshwater springs. My daughter is named after Alexander Springs. I think they are some of the most beautiful places on earth! So I expected Wakulla Springs, the world’s largest freshwater spring, to blow my mind. I was disappointed.
The spring is certainly large, and the cypress forest that surrounds it looks deep and mysterious. But the water, while still somewhat clear, is brown, not the turquoise I expect to see when coming upon a spring. You can tell that this spring is in trouble, even though it’s remoteness and limited development provides some protection from human activities. Compared to historical levels, the nitrate/nitrogen levels in this spring are 1400% higher than they were. Hydrilla and algae also compromise the health of Wakulla Spring and its run. Rising sea levels and declining clear water flow from the aquifer have resulted in “dark water” rather than the blue-green water of a healthier spring.
You can read more about the degradation of the Spring and efforts to combat that degradation here.
Happier Thoughts about Wakulla Springs State Park
In spite of these challenges, the Park is beloved by many. Children, in particular, enjoy the diving platform and the sunning platform for those who swim out over the springhead. It is a peaceful spring and the chittering of squirrels often is louder than the sounds of humans.
Miles of trails are available to those who enjoy hiking, and there are some small elevation changes and as Ball and I both noticed, a more northern feel to this terrain than most of Florida provides. Be sure to take the trail to the Sally Ward Spring Run. The springhead is barely visible on the right just before you leave the Park, and it is a healthy turquoise. The run is in a beautiful area and the bridge over it is a lovely spot.
While I am usually engaged far more by the outdoors than the indoors, it was the Lodge’s beautiful lobby and an enclosed porch that I will remember most about this Park. If you visit, make sure to take a look at the book titled A New Deal for Wakulla. The book is on the table facing the lobby entrance and catalogs all the paintings on the ceiling of the lobby.
As you move through the lobby to the right toward the gift shop, you’ll notice beautiful seating areas with checkers and chess. In the mood? Stop and enjoy a game! If you choose to move to the left, you’ll be in the Lodge’s dining room. We did not stop to eat on this trip, but next time I want to take advantage of a meal in that beautiful setting.
I am also determined to sit in front of this stunning fireplace on a chilly morning . . . with a cup of hot cocoa and cuddled into Steve’s shoulder. Ahh, nice!
In the gift shop, you’ll find a lunch counter. Take just a minute to admire the fine marble facing — it is the longest continuous marble bar in the country!
