Every now and then you’ll find a place so special you know you’ll go back again. A hiking buddy told us about Rice Creek, and after doing a bit of reading, I knew I wanted to see it. Three hiking buddies and Steve and I found a date that worked for all of us, and off we went for a new-to-us adventure.
The Conservation Area
Rice Creek begins where Palmetto Branch, Oldtown Branch and Hickory Branch combine to form this tributary of the St. Johns River. The Conservation Area is just west of Palatka and the St. Johns River, between Salt Springs and Keystone Heights. Prior to its current incarnation as a public area, it comprised commercial pine plantations. Before that, it was an indigo and rice plantation. Today, the area protects floodplain swamp, flatwoods, dome swamp, floodplain forest and upland mixed forest. This background information was adapted from AllTrails. https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/florida/rice-creek-plantation-levee-trail.
A highlight of the area is the Rice Creek Plantation Levee Trail. The Trail is what’s called a “lollipop” which is a straight trail connecting to a loop. You hike into the loop on the same trail which will bring you out. We knew that we wanted to hike Hoffman Crossing, which is not part of the Levee Trail. The Crossing is an 1,886 foot length of narrow boardwalk that meanders through Rice Creek Swamp. So we started on the Florida Trail with its familiar orange blazes, and finished on a white blazed trail (the other half of the loop trail) leading us out of the Hoffman’s Crossing section to the Rice Creek Hilton and back to our starting point on the loop.
We left Sorrento early. We wanted to get the bulk of the trail covered before the heat of the day made hiking unpleasant.
WARNING: Discussion of bodily function follows in the next paragraph. Skip it if you’re squeamish.
The women in the group have been experimenting with using what is called “feminine urinary devices” or pee sticks. We all have different preferences and different levels of success. At least two of us have settled on sticks that allow us to pee easily, without getting half undressed and squatting. This may not sound monumental, but I am happy to be spared that vulnerability and much more comfortable hiking now. One member of our group returned from a pit stop with a HUGE smile on her face and when she announced that she had experienced success on her first try, I knew I’m not the only one happy to hike confident in my ability not to pee on my own shoes. I’m going to write a separate post on this, so I won’t spend any more time on it here.
OKAY – It’s safe to start reading again.
With packs on our backs and smiles on our faces, we locked up the car and headed out. Almost as soon as we stepped onto the trail, we noticed that Spring wildflowers are beginning to bloom! We saw a white thistle and jessamine in bloom as we walked along the open trail heading for the levee.
On the Loop at Last!
Once we entered the loop portion of the trail, we quickly realized that here, you must pay attention to where you are, because where you’re going is hidden by the twisting nature of the path. After we discussed the merits of heading clockwise or counterclockwise, we decided to turn to the right. You can, of course, turn either way on a loop trail, but this decision meant that some of the best parts of the hike came at the very end. I prefer to save the best for last, but if you want to do a short hike, you could turn to the left, hike to the Rice Creek Hilton, and end your hike there. More about that later!
Life in Death Along the Trail
Conservation areas nearly always have fascinating communities of trees. I really liked all the dead trees at Rice Creek. There are plenty of them. Some have really interesting shapes that make you wonder how they managed to grow that way. Some have holes that probably house small birds or other creatures. When the holes are near the ground, it’s impossible to resist looking inside to see what or who might be living there. Those holes are, at least to me, portals that invite contemplation of worlds of which I know very little.
Death, of course, means decomposition, and the forest is a great place to watch this process at work. Fungi, beetles, worms, lichens, algae. . .all work together to break a great tree back into soil to nourish the next tree. This process is happening every second of every day of every week of every month of every year of every decade . . . you get the picture. It happens whether we think about it or not, whether we appreciate it or not, and I am amazed at how much I am both an integral part of nature and irrelevant to so much of it.
Sights on the Trail
Wildflowers, including Florida Azalea, violets, and irises. Ferns, mosses, airplants. Reptiles, including many lizards and a beautiful grass snake. Poison ivy. Suspension bridge. Multiple small wooden bridges over areas that will be wet during the rainy season.
Hoffman Crossing
If you follow the loop trail to the right, as we did, you’ll take a jog to the right to head south on the Florida Trail to Hoffman Crossing. Here’s a map I found at this journal. It’s worth clicking through and reading the article! You’ll know you’re on the right track because the trail will be blazed with the Florida Trail orange blazes. If you are on a white blazed trail, you’ve missed the turn. Go back to Doyle’s Bridge and look for the orange blazes.
The trail from the loop to Hoffman Crossing covers several areas that are frequently underwater. Some of these have a regular footbridge over them, but others have been filled with closely placed logs that span the trail. That was fun. There were many violets, both white and purple, along the trail here.
The Crossing extends nearly 2000 feet into Rice Creek Swamp, after which the Florida Trail continues south to SR 20. It is impossible to describe the Crossing and feel that the words will do it justice. It is a narrow boardwalk (only three and sometimes only two boards wide) with a handrail on one side. In some areas, the vertical supports have rotted and the boardwalk sways as you pass. It is, in some places, lower on one side than the other, and you may feel as if you’re going to be in the swamp before you know it.
The boards are covered with wire mesh and roofing shingles to help you keep your footing, and if you were to fall in the water would not be deep. You might be miserable but your life would probably not be in danger. Before you realize it has happened, though, the beauty of the swamp and the wonder of walking through it push thoughts of discomfort right out of your mind.
Thinking of the men who built this boardwalk and how difficult that must have been and how amazing it is that they were thinking of sharing the swamp experience with people they didn’t even know filled me with wonder and gratitude.
SNAKE!
I had lagged behind at one point and heard a hub bub ahead, with one of our group members shouting about an enormous snake. Thinking it might be a cottonmouth or moccasin from all the racket, I rushed to catch up, but the snake was a beautiful rough greensnake trying its best to look like a vine or branch. I watched it for several minutes and reluctantly walked on to keep up with the group.
When we got to the end of the Crossing, we turned around and headed back. This poor little snake was still in the same spot, trying to blend in.
In Which We are Worn Out
When we returned to the loop portion of the trail, we followed the side with white blazes, in search of the fabled Rice Creek Hilton. By this point, we had traveled a couple more miles than I had told Steve we would be hiking, and I’m afraid we wore him out. He did not want to stop, but at last we all decided we needed a break. We ate our lunch sitting right in the middle of the trail! Hikers came from the opposite direction and we apologized for being broken down right in the middle of the trail. . .they laughed and said the Hilton was just ahead and around the next bend.
Rice Creek Hilton
When we felt up to moving along, we realized that they were right! Had we only walked another 5 minutes we could have enjoyed the splendor of the RIce Creek Hilton. We all agreed that we’d be up to try an overnight hike if it meant spending the night here.
There’s a picnic table on the first floor, along with small shelves housing items like a lighter, a Bible, a knife, a can opener, and other things that would make life easier for weary hikers. If you climb the ladder, you’ll find a screened sleep enclosure with hooks for hanging packs and cushions on which you could stretch out to sleep. I believe I’d avoid the cushions, but I’ll bet it’s lovely to sleep up there on a late fall or early spring night. Once I’ve tried it out, I’ll let you know!
If you visit the Rice Creek Hilton, be aware that there are no reservations and you are expected to share the space. In addition to the building, you’ll find a picnic table, several benches, a fire ring, and a water pump. Water is not potable, so expect to filter/treat.
Immediately after returning to the trail, we came upon a clearing with two large oaks, a couple of picnic tables, and a water pump (not potable, so expect to filter/treat). There’s no camping allowed here, which is unfortunate because it is a beautiful spot.
If we had turned left instead of right when we first got on the loop, we would have hit the two big oaks and the Rice Creek Hilton at the beginning of our hike. I think I prefer the way we did it, because they were both such lovely surprises.
Let’s Go Home
After that, all that was left was to hike back to the car. I’ll be honest, that was a grind, especially after we were out of the wooded area and walking on open trail under the sun. I think knowing that I had ice cold Diet Cokes waiting in the cooler is the only thing that kept me going on the last mile. I don’t claim to be proud of that.
The trip back to Sorrento was a fun drive through the Ocala National Forest. Honestly, this part of the state puts us within reach of so many wonderful things! I hope to visit Rice Creek regularly, and it looks like Putnam County has many protected areas for hiking. I’m going to check them out!