A Treasure in Ocala National Forest: Juniper Wilderness

Ever since I fell in love with The Yearling Trail, I’ve wanted to hike in more areas of the Ocala National Forest. This treasure is practically in my back yard. Taking friends into the forest to enjoy the peace and quiet and to appreciate the value of the Florida scrub is easily done. When I realized that the hike from Juniper Springs through the Juniper Wilderness to the Hopkins Prairie campground is only about 10 miles from end to end, well within the limits of what I can comfortably cover in a day, I got a small group together and we headed out.

A Chilly Morning

Every adventure I’ve had this year has involved an extra layer of clothing! This cold day was no different. A long sleeved t-shirt made a warm enough layer and was easy to peel off later in the day. We met at Juniper Springs and parked, comparing jackets and gloves, watching our breath condense in the air, and marveling at the chill, which we don’t often get here in central Florida.

This little bunny captured our hearts. So cute!
Springhead at morning . . . always a beautiful sight.

Some of us stopped to use the restroom (because, you know, COFFEE) while others walked down to the spring. At the springhead, we were treated to a primeval scene of mist moving like the spirit of God over the face of the water. We also captured a bit of sweet wildlife that none of us had seen before. We hope the little bunny gets safely home!

I only noticed that Judy is giving me Bunny Ears after I uploaded this photo.
Photo credit: Lisa Kinsinger DuRant
Sue and Lisa ready to get serious about hiking,

From the trailhead, we set out into the morning chill. The sun was fully up and our hands stiff from cold. Soon, however, the peace of the forest and the beauty of the trail took our mind off of the possibility of frostbite. By the time we reached the Juniper Wilderness, we had shaken off the cold and felt comfortable.

The Viking

Almost immediately after the above photos were taken, we met with what we collectively call The Viking. This guy wore a horned helmet, was enormous and shirtless, and carried an ax and a spear. His heavy guyliner looked, well, frankly he just looked dirty. Seriously, I was glad to be part of a group when we crossed his path. He was perfectly polite, though, stepped well off the trail to let us pass him and wished us a good morning. Fascinated by his ax, which was covered in fur where the blade met the handle, I asked him what he was chopping. He said it was for protection, so I smiled nervously, and walked past. Lisa, the selfie queen of our group, later said she couldn’t believe she didn’t ask him to take a selfie with her. I wish we had photographic evidence of the encounter!

That was, other than the little green bunny outside the restrooms at the Spring, almost (but not quite!) the only wildlife we saw on this hike. But the Wilderness has more to offer than wildlife. The morning sky was a cold, crisp blue to match the temperature. While we roughly paralled S.R.19 for a long part of the hike, there were also stretches where we were surrounded by nothing but stillness and silence.

Photo Credit – Judy Holtz

Water, Water Everywhere

There were two small creeks that we crossed before the halfway point of our hike. The first, Whisper Creek, had two skinny logs that we carefully made our way across. Whiskey Creek had a board as a bridge. Neither of these should make you wary – the water is very shallow and a good jumper could clear either of these little streams.

Bridge over Whisper Creek. The water is very, very shallow and it’s not wide, but we loved the bridge!

We enjoyed being apparently the only people on the trail. Of course, there were others ahead of us and behind us, but not close enough that we were aware of them most of the time. We loved the evidence of other hikers, like this key left in a crevice of the bark of a tree. Was it a message? Simply found on the trail and left in a visible spot? Who knows? What do YOU think it means?

So many things could be happening with this key. We had fun making up scenarios to explain the colorful key tucked into the tree, but I’ve settled on someone leaving the key to happiness.

Hidden Pond

Hidden Pond is the approximate halfway point on the trail from Juniper Wilderness to Hopkins Prairie. I had read that the pond area is overused, with lots of garbage and rowdy campers. We did not observe this when we stopped to enjoy a raucous scrub jay’s welcome to this pretty spot. This was the first time Sue saw a scrub jay, and this one kept her entertained for several minutes before it moved on.

It is obvious that humans have made an impact here, but it was not covered in trash as I had expected. We enjoyed stopping for lunch and a thoroughly enjoyable rest. A Ranger visited with each group at the Pond to remind us to make sure all fires were put out completely. Once again, Lisa forgot to get a selfie. I wish she had, because that Ranger was pretty cute! He was also really nice and spoke with us at length about his experiences in other National Forests. I was disappointed that he did not recognize Ocala National Forest as the paradise it is. . .apparently he prefers mountains and year-round hiking opportunities. I must agree with him that summer hiking is nearly impossible in Florida.

First glimpse of Hidden Pond, a popular spot for breaks, lunch, and camping. Water can be filtered for drinking.

Steve and I love to take foot-selfies, to remind ourselves that we have traveled so many exciting roads together. Now I have a new group of friends with whom I can make fun memories and use feet as a reminder of travels.

These are half of the feet that carried us along the trail. Photo credit – Lisa Kinsinger DuRant

. As the Girl Scouts sing, “Make new friends, but keep the old. One is silver and the other is gold.” Lisa and Judy are my gold friends, and Sue is silver. I’m glad she joined us on this trip and hope we will share hikes together frequently

Yearling Trail Detour

We finished our hike with a detour to the Long Family Cemetery and the Yearling Trail sinkhole. These beautiful spots are refreshing and soothing. If you hike the Juniper Wilderness Trail, I highly recommend making this short detour. We watched a pair of hikers playing at the bottom of the sinkhole, and they found a rope swing! As many times as I’ve looked into that gigantic hole, I’ve never noticed the swing before! There’s always something new and wonderful on these trails.

The Girl Scout in me loves to Make New Friends, and a forest trail is a great place to celebrate new friendships. Photo Credit – Lisa Kinsinger DuRant

Bok Tower Gardens

Music, beautiful gardens, knowledgeable staff, and a setting that will take your breath all work together to make Bok Tower Gardens in Lake Wales a worthwhile visit. While you’re there, it’s well worth learning about their rare plant conservation program, and you may want to consider a membership as well. The Gardens have frequent special events, and provide a beautiful spot to breathe and enjoy splendid scenery in a national historic park.

Edward Bok was an immigrant to the United States from the Netherlands, and grew up to be an author and very successful editor. He edited Ladies Home Journal for 30 years, and then retired. He was an anti-suffragist, believing that women belonged in the home and should neither vote nor be educated. I won’t belabor that point, but did find it very interesting that a man so well-regarded held these antiquated views. I suppose they were not antiquated in his time.

This vista was made possible by Hurricane Charley, which knocked down trees that had overgrown to block the view. It is unusual, in central Florida, to see such large expanses of undeveloped land.

The gardens are located on the Lake Wales Ridge. Many years ago, when most of our state was under water, the Lake Wales Ridge was a series of islands. Now, the ridge comprises some of Florida’s oldest habitat, and stretches from Clermont south to Sebring. Because it is land that is high and dry, by Florida standards, the land is highly regarded by developers. The view from Bok Tower Gardens is highly unusual because there are still large expanses of undeveloped and grove lands.

In 1921, Mr. Bok bought the land at the top of the area known as Iron Mountain, and retained Frederick Law Olmstead, Jr., to design the garden. Work began digging the trenches that would house irrigation pipes, and thousands of loads of rich soil were brought in to create the right conditions for this subtropical garden. Interpretive signs throughout the garden tell the story of how the gardens and the Singing Tower came to be. The park was originally named Bok Mountain Lake Sanctuary and Singing Tower.

The tower houses a 60 bell carillon with the bells ranging in weight from 16 pounds to over TEN TONS! Every day at 1 and 3 pm, a concert is presented, and on the hour and half hour, short selections are played. Live concerts by carilloneur Geert D’hollander can be heard from October to May on Thursday-Sunday. There is a viewing area where you may watch video of D’hollander playing, but you can hear the music throughout the entire 250 acre park. The concerts include Americana, standards, and contemporary selections.

I loved the face of this statue.

The visitor center houses great exhibits providing background on the construction of the gardens, Bok’s career and philosophy, and plant conservation. There is also a good exhibit on the carillon tower and how it works.

None of the flowers pictured here are native Florida plants, but the Gardens do have a native plant area. Plantings in all areas of the Gardens were chosen to provide food and shelter for native and migrating birds.

On the day we visited, the furry buds of Japanese Magnolia (pictured above) had opened into glorious pink blooms. These flowers demand that you walk a bit slower and breathe a bit deeper to fully appreciate their beauty and aroma.

There is much more to explore at the Gardens. There is a native plant area, a children’s area with the coolest sandbox ever (it’s a snake!), an outdoor kitchen that is often used by UF/IFAS to present classes. . .oh, and the Exedra. The Exedra is, I think, my favorite feature. An Exedra is an outdoor seating area, usually semicircular in shape. The Bok Exedra is marble, and was a gift to Bok from neighbors who appreciated his garden.

Exedra

The Exedra is a great place to enjoy a shady interlude. I’ve always thought it would be fun to bring a book or some needlework and sit here for several hours. It also looks like a good spot from which to enjoy a sunset.

You are welcome to picnic on the grounds, or you can get a good lunch at the Blue Palmetto Cafe. There is a 3.5 mile hiking trail on Bok property, but outside the gardens. I’ve not yet hiked it, but it’s part of the plan for my next visit.

I may not like Bok’s view of women, but I appreciate his view of Florida and the wonders of Iron Mountain. Bok Tower Gardens is one of my favorite places to visit again and again.

Return to the Yearling Trail

Recently my friend Lisa and I returned to the Yearling Trail after an absence of several months. Steve joined us, which made the day extra special.

Here are some of the sights we saw.

Right at the start of the trail, there was an area of partridge pea that was literally BUZZING. Bumblebees were everywhere, carrying loads of pollen out of the yellow flowers.

Pam and Lisa at the Sinkhole.
Beautiful fungi. The forest was full of fungi on this visit, and it was all beautiful!
Spiders were plentiful, too. This may be the only shot where I’ve managed to capture some of the web. Man, that stuff is STICKY!
Cattle Dip
More fungi.
Pretty sure this is Palafoxia feayi, Feay’s Palafax. Whatever it is, it was at several sites, and really pretty.

National Panther Wildlife Refuge

TITLE PHOTO CREDIT: “Florida Panther RX 04-04-14” by USFWS/Southeast is marked with CC PDM 1.0

The good news about the National Panther Wildlife Refuge is that it exists at all. This Refuge was established in 1989, and comprises over 26,000 acres of pine forest, oak hammock, and cypress strand habitats on public lands and large private ranches. The bad news is that only a very small portion of the Refuge is open to the public. This severely restricted access is necessary to properly manage the acreage to protect the panthers, so it’s a fair trade. Management efforts include a regular program of prescribed burns and removal of invasive plants. Removal of invasive plants sounds odd in a panther protection scheme, but it is a critical component of habitat management. Invasive plants actually impact how well the burns work to protect the habitat, so managing them is very important to protecting panthers.

“Florida Panther RX 04-04-14” by USFWS/Southeast is marked with CC PDM 1.0

Panther Habitat

Panthers must have huge amounts of land to meet their needs. The pine forests and oak hammocks of the Refuge meet these needs, and provide habitat for the deer, wild hogs, and other smaller mammals who make up the bulk of a panther’s diet. They routinely travel through the Refuge to pass from Big Cypress National Preserve to Fakahatchee Strand State Preserve and back. Female panthers often raise their kittens within the preserve.

Public Access

There are two trails that are open the the public. One is a half-mile loop and the other is a 1.3 mile loop. If you visit during the wet summer months, you can expect both trails to be flooded in areas, and you may notice vegetation overgrowing the trail in many places. During the dry months, the trails will still have places that are noticeably damp. A visit in January left us with dry feet. Because it was so cool the week we visited, there were not even mosquitoes! In general, you should always bring plenty of water, bug spray, and sunscreen if you plan to walk either or both of the public trails. Leave your pets at home, because they are not welcome within the Refuge.

We saw a few birds on the trail, but the most interesting feature was the variety of plant life. The signage left a little to be desired, but we reminded ourselves that the Refuge is more for panthers than humans, and panthers don’t need signage.

Strangler Fig and Shoelace Fern
Epiphyte thriving along the trail
Read into this what you will.

Neighborhood Lakes Trail

This recently opened trail is short but a great indication of how much fun we are all going to have when Lake County’s system of trails is connected. And the experience of riding it is a reminder to myself that the longer I put something off, the harder it is to do – not riding my bike for a while turned in to 15 years of missing the wind in my face and the pleasant tremble of muscles that have worked really hard.

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Long Cemetery on the Yearling Trail, Ocala National Forest

Last weekend, Judy and I hiked the Yearling Trail. We were only able to do the short loop because I dawdled so long on the portion of the trail leading up to the sinkhole. We were rushing to finish the hike, and we did not find the Long Cemetery. This morning I went back, determined to hike straight to the cemetery and back with no dawdling. The Long Cemetery houses the graves of Ruben and Sarah Long, who inspired Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings to write The Yearling.

Well, I failed.

Florida Scrub Jays

First of all, the scrub jays on this trail are ridiculous. A group of three began fussing at me before I even got on the main part of the trail! Later another two jays spent a minute or two refusing to have their pictures taken. Then another group of three jays objected to my being on the trail. I did not want to be rude by rushing away from those raucous jays! They are so curious about humans and what we might be doing in their spaces.

Florida scrub jay PHOTO CREDIT: Judy Holtz

The Cemetery

Second, the cemetery is such a sweetly welcoming place and so peaceful that it was difficult to pull myself away. From the Welcome sign on the gate to the hand tools left so that the site can be tended to the coins left on the grave markers, this cemetery just opened something in me.

Hand tools
Welcome sign on gate at Long Cemetery

The Experience

Standing within the picket fence, I was very aware of God reminding me that I’m part of something larger than myself. My place in this world is surrounded by love and light. It was a sacred awareness and I took some time to sit with the feeling and drink it in. Without an offering to leave on the markers, I promised the Long family I would be back. I thanked them for the impact they made on Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings. Without their friendship, she would not have written The Yearling. If she had not written that book, I would have never thought to hike this trail, would never have stood in this spot, and felt what I was feeling.

Giving Thanks

I gave thanks for the people who tend this small plot, and for their leaving tools for when they return. I gave thanks for the way the light filtered through the pines to make this shady spot feel bright. And I must have needed to have this experience, because I felt noticeably lighter when I headed back down the trail to the car.

Encounters with the living God are subjective, and can seldom be expressed adequately. Our language is not sufficient to such overwhelming feelings! But if you’ve had a similar experience I think you will understand when I say that Long Cemetery is one of the most life-affirming places I’ve ever been.

As soon as I got home, I added a bottle of Florida Water to my backpack so that I will never again be without an offering. When I leave a few drops of this sweet-smelling stuff in a place or on an object, I really focus on the here and now. These small offerings help me deeply appreciate this life we’ve been given.

Gopher apple is just coming into bloom. Soon there will be fruit for the gopher tortoises to enjoy. The green pines against the green sky make a beautiful sight! The rabbits and lizards that I saw this morning were too quick for me to get a photo of, but plants move slowly so I was able to get these photos. Do yourself a favor: come to The Yearling Trail. It does not disappoint.

Gopher apple
Pines on The Island

Kissimmee Prairie State Park

This state park is remarkable for many reasons, but the two most important are these: it is the largest remaining expanse of dry prairie in the state of Florida, and the first park in Florida to be recognized as a Dark Sky Site by International Dark Sky Association. While the park is a dry prairie, you can still expect to get your feet wet during the summer months when rain and bugs are far more troublesome than they were for our February camping trip.

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Museum of the Everglades

If you’re in southwest Florida and have a couple hours to spare, a visit to Museum of the Everglades should be on the top of your agenda. Judy and I stopped here during a visit to Everglades City, and I am SO glad we did. I don’t think either of us expected to be wowed by this small museum housed in an old laundry, but from the whimsical bike rack shaped like an alligator to the delicately stitched Seminole textiles to the welcoming volunteer answering questions at the front desk, Museum of the Everglades is a small but mighty exemplar of a museum – and it’s FREE. Make a donation, if you please, and I hope you please.

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Collier Seminole State Park

Collier Seminole State Park offers a great spot from which to base many adventures on the western edge of the Everglades. With so much water around, it is apparent that you are in the middle of a swamp, and the traffic noise from the Tamiami Trail is always present, but all in all, I’d recommend this park with no hesitation at all. It is clean, clean, clean. There are some interesting features (the last remaining Bay City Walking Dredge, the Barron Collier memorial, a replicated Seminole village) and a great location for exploring Ten Thousand Islands, Big Cypress, National Panther Wildlife Refuge, and more. You might even run across a skunk ape, but that’s doubtful. What you are guaranteed, though, is a wide variety of natural wonders, and maybe even a glimpse of heaven.

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