Every now and then you’ll find a place so special you know you’ll go back again. A hiking buddy told us about Rice Creek, and after doing a bit of reading, I knew I wanted to see it. Three hiking buddies and Steve and I found a date that worked for all of us, and off we went for a new-to-us adventure.
The Conservation Area
Rice Creek begins where Palmetto Branch, Oldtown Branch and Hickory Branch combine to form this tributary of the St. Johns River. The Conservation Area is just west of Palatka and the St. Johns River, between Salt Springs and Keystone Heights. Prior to its current incarnation as a public area, it comprised commercial pine plantations. Before that, it was an indigo and rice plantation. Today, the area protects floodplain swamp, flatwoods, dome swamp, floodplain forest and upland mixed forest. This background information was adapted from AllTrails. https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/florida/rice-creek-plantation-levee-trail.
I was recently asked to go on a three-day hike through the Everglades with primitive camping. Wow. That’s a big nope from me. It sounds like something that might have fit 20 years ago but now? Well, if I can’t have ice for my big tumbler I get grouchy, and without a hot shower before bed, I get sticky and stinky. Saa-aa-aa-d that I am so old and soft, but here we are.
Why can’t I live out of a backpack for three days? Because there’s so much stuff that makes camping pleasant for me, and I need my car to carry it all. And here’s some of what that stuff entails:
Visiting the main park at Silver Springs is a bit of time traveling. Once a privately owned park, it sometimes hosted small concerts and large car shows, and it retains an air of those glory days. While it is near the Ocala National Forest, it is not part of the Forest.
Steve and I recently drove on Jane’s Scenic Drive and we were . . . well, I guess conflicted is the right word. Jane’s Scenic Drive is in the Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park. The Fakahatchee is home to so many plants and animals found only in the continental US that I’m not even going to attempt to list them. The Ghost Orchid is probably only behind the Florida Panther as the best-known Strand resident.
Nearly 60 years ago, the first section of the Florida Trail was begun just a few short miles from my home. Less than 20 years later, the trail earned congressional recognition and nis now known as the Florida National Scenic Trail. Today, this trail runs north from Big Cypress National Preserve to Gulf Islands National Seashore in the panhandle. There are numerous side trails and spur trails to local sites of interest. There are multiple websites and mobile apps that make navigating the Trail something anyone can do, and I encourage you to get out there and see a mile or two of the over 1000 miles of trail.
Ever since I fell in love with The Yearling Trail, I’ve wanted to hike in more areas of the Ocala National Forest. This treasure is practically in my back yard. Taking friends into the forest to enjoy the peace and quiet and to appreciate the value of the Florida scrub is easily done. When I realized that the hike from Juniper Springs through the Juniper Wilderness to the Hopkins Prairie campground is only about 10 miles from end to end, well within the limits of what I can comfortably cover in a day, I got a small group together and we headed out.
A Chilly Morning
Every adventure I’ve had this year has involved an extra layer of clothing! This cold day was no different. A long sleeved t-shirt made a warm enough layer and was easy to peel off later in the day. We met at Juniper Springs and parked, comparing jackets and gloves, watching our breath condense in the air, and marveling at the chill, which we don’t often get here in central Florida.
This little bunny captured our hearts. So cute!
Springhead at morning . . . always a beautiful sight.
Some of us stopped to use the restroom (because, you know, COFFEE) while others walked down to the spring. At the springhead, we were treated to a primeval scene of mist moving like the spirit of God over the face of the water. We also captured a bit of sweet wildlife that none of us had seen before. We hope the little bunny gets safely home!
I only noticed that Judy is giving me Bunny Ears after I uploaded this photo. Photo credit: Lisa Kinsinger DuRant
Sue and Lisa ready to get serious about hiking,
From the trailhead, we set out into the morning chill. The sun was fully up and our hands stiff from cold. Soon, however, the peace of the forest and the beauty of the trail took our mind off of the possibility of frostbite. By the time we reached the Juniper Wilderness, we had shaken off the cold and felt comfortable.
The Viking
Almost immediately after the above photos were taken, we met with what we collectively call The Viking. This guy wore a horned helmet, was enormous and shirtless, and carried an ax and a spear. His heavy guyliner looked, well, frankly he just looked dirty. Seriously, I was glad to be part of a group when we crossed his path. He was perfectly polite, though, stepped well off the trail to let us pass him and wished us a good morning. Fascinated by his ax, which was covered in fur where the blade met the handle, I asked him what he was chopping. He said it was for protection, so I smiled nervously, and walked past. Lisa, the selfie queen of our group, later said she couldn’t believe she didn’t ask him to take a selfie with her. I wish we had photographic evidence of the encounter!
That was, other than the little green bunny outside the restrooms at the Spring, almost (but not quite!) the only wildlife we saw on this hike. But the Wilderness has more to offer than wildlife. The morning sky was a cold, crisp blue to match the temperature. While we roughly paralled S.R.19 for a long part of the hike, there were also stretches where we were surrounded by nothing but stillness and silence.
Photo Credit – Judy Holtz
Water, Water Everywhere
There were two small creeks that we crossed before the halfway point of our hike. The first, Whisper Creek, had two skinny logs that we carefully made our way across. Whiskey Creek had a board as a bridge. Neither of these should make you wary – the water is very shallow and a good jumper could clear either of these little streams.
Bridge over Whisper Creek. The water is very, very shallow and it’s not wide, but we loved the bridge!
We enjoyed being apparently the only people on the trail. Of course, there were others ahead of us and behind us, but not close enough that we were aware of them most of the time. We loved the evidence of other hikers, like this key left in a crevice of the bark of a tree. Was it a message? Simply found on the trail and left in a visible spot? Who knows? What do YOU think it means?
So many things could be happening with this key. We had fun making up scenarios to explain the colorful key tucked into the tree, but I’ve settled on someone leaving the key to happiness.
Hidden Pond
Hidden Pond is the approximate halfway point on the trail from Juniper Wilderness to Hopkins Prairie. I had read that the pond area is overused, with lots of garbage and rowdy campers. We did not observe this when we stopped to enjoy a raucous scrub jay’s welcome to this pretty spot. This was the first time Sue saw a scrub jay, and this one kept her entertained for several minutes before it moved on.
It is obvious that humans have made an impact here, but it was not covered in trash as I had expected. We enjoyed stopping for lunch and a thoroughly enjoyable rest. A Ranger visited with each group at the Pond to remind us to make sure all fires were put out completely. Once again, Lisa forgot to get a selfie. I wish she had, because that Ranger was pretty cute! He was also really nice and spoke with us at length about his experiences in other National Forests. I was disappointed that he did not recognize Ocala National Forest as the paradise it is. . .apparently he prefers mountains and year-round hiking opportunities. I must agree with him that summer hiking is nearly impossible in Florida.
First glimpse of Hidden Pond, a popular spot for breaks, lunch, and camping. Water can be filtered for drinking.
Steve and I love to take foot-selfies, to remind ourselves that we have traveled so many exciting roads together. Now I have a new group of friends with whom I can make fun memories and use feet as a reminder of travels.
These are half of the feet that carried us along the trail. Photo credit – Lisa Kinsinger DuRant
We finished our hike with a detour to the Long Family Cemetery and the Yearling Trail sinkhole. These beautiful spots are refreshing and soothing. If you hike the Juniper Wilderness Trail, I highly recommend making this short detour. We watched a pair of hikers playing at the bottom of the sinkhole, and they found a rope swing! As many times as I’ve looked into that gigantic hole, I’ve never noticed the swing before! There’s always something new and wonderful on these trails.
The Girl Scout in me loves to Make New Friends, and a forest trail is a great place to celebrate new friendships. Photo Credit – Lisa Kinsinger DuRant
Okay, maybe we didn’t really ring in the New Year at Cayo Costa, but we got there as quickly as we could! We began our adventure by traveling to Pine Island and handing off our camping gear to the helpful folks at the Tropic Star ferry, and enjoyed the short boat ride to Cayo Costa State Park.
We had done a day trip to Cayo Costa before, but felt that it just wasn’t worth the travel time. We wanted a better experience, and so we decided to stay for several days just as soon as I could get a reservation to camp.
You already know that I’m a tent camper at heart, but I’ll camp in the pop-up with Steve. There’s no way to get a pop-up on the ferry, so instead, we rented a cabin. Florida State Park cabins are generally almost luxurious, with full kitchens and bathrooms. This cabin was rustic, and we just loved it! There were 6 bunks, a picnic table, a couple of small shelves, and plenty of nails from which to hang lanterns or wet towels or whatever else needed hanging. Just outside the door was another picnic table, a fire ring, and a grill.
Home, sweet home, January 2-6, 2022Well, I’ve slept on comfier beds, but we would camp here again, and I fully intend to!
We ended up doubling the mattresses on the two lower bunks we occupied, and were still not quite comfortable, but we were able to sleep. Notice the large windows right next to the lower bunks! These made sure we always had a breeze and help keep the cabins habitable during the long hot summers.
Next to our cabin was a bathhouse comprising restrooms, outdoor showers, and a dishwashing sink (cold water only!). The restrooms were locked during our entire stay, but the new bathhouse was just a short walk away. I’m glad the “big” bathhouse was convenient, because the little shower looked pretty grubby. Full disclosure: I used it anyway, because it offered WAY more privacy than the showers at the big bathhouse, which are outdoors and fully open on one of the wide sides!
Not as pretty as the other showers, but I appreciated the privacy!
Well, no. I just could not enjoy a shower here . . . and not because the water is cold. I’m just not an exhibitionist!
THERE IS NO ELECTRICITY FOR CAMPERS ON CAYO COSTA. I put that in all caps not because I was surprised, but so that YOU won’t be surprised. Cayo Costa is not the Florida State Park camping experience you’ll get at most parks. The lack of electricity is the biggest difference but here’s my favorite difference: the peace and tranquility of being on an island where the only other people for most hours of the day are fellow campers.
Beautiful bathhouse. But be advised: there is neither electricity nor hot water. It’s not hard to live without these things while you’re camping, but be prepared!
Once the ferry docked at Cayo Costa, we were instructed to load our camping gear in the back of the pick-up truck and take a seat on the tram. The Ranger delivered campers to their sites less than a mile from the dock. We made our beds, made ourselves a cold drink, and prepared for an afternoon walk on the beach. I changed into my sunglasses, which I would not mention except for the fact that . . . well, I’ll tell you why later.
During the winter, the last ferry for day-trippers leaves the island at 2:00. So for the rest of the day, only campers and rangers are on the island. This, friends, is bliss. We walked and walked and walked some more, and saw very few people. What we saw a lot of were shells and small pieces of driftwood and birds and all the things that make the beach special.
We enjoyed our first walk on the beach, although the windy weather had the water stirred up and it was not the beautiful tropical blue-green we had hoped to see. Still, it was a beautiful walk. We walked to the north and then took the upland trail back to our cabin, where we enjoyed a simple dinner and went to bed early. Going to bed early seems to be a theme for us these days; when we’re camping, we can barely keep our eyes open until dark!
We slept for a few hours, until I woke up to pee. On my short trip to the bathhouse, the splendor of the sky blew me away. Even though I was WEARING MY SUNGLASSES, because y’know, I had lost my regular glasses. So many stars! I believe it might be the most stars I’ve seen in the night sky as an adult. It was so stunning I made Steve come outside and look at it with me.
We decided to walk on the beach — a night walk on the beach is something we’ve not done together in a very long time, and it was just as lovely as you’d expect. I mean, you can just picture it, right? An old lady and her man, she in a nightshirt and he in a pair of gym shorts. . . and wait a minute . . . is she wearing SUNGLASSES? Yeah. I was. But really, it was lovely to walk on the beach with the love of my life, feeling like there was no one else on the planet. It was very windy, though, and we probably walked out about a mile and back before we decided to pack it in. I would have been happier if I had been able to see more, but sunglasses on a new moon night is just not conducive to seeing.
The next morning, I woke up bright and early,. The sun was not yet up, so I brushed my teeth and sat outside at the picnic table. As soon as it was light, I walked down to the ranger station. First, though, I walked through the tent camper loop, because I took a wrong turn. It was fun, though, to feel like the only person up and around. When I got to the ranger station and dock, I sat at a picnic table and listened to a really enjoyable book, The Lost Queen, a novel by Signe Pike. When the camp store opened, I picked up a bag of charcoal and some lighter fluid. Here’s my advice: don’t buy your charcoal on the island. We intentionally planned to buy charcoal there, because we were limited to 50 pounds of stuff, but it’s nearly criminally expensive and I’ll never do it again. If we had not had a gorgeous steak dinner planned, I’d have made do with the camp stove. At any rate, I pacified myself with the certainty that overpriced charcoal is the least of the world’s problems, loaded my backpack, asked the Rangers for the time of the next low tide and a place to charge my phone, and headed back to camp for something hot to drink.
The hiking at Cayo Costa is terrific. You can’t really get lost, although I did take a wrong turn the first time I set out on my own. We hiked enough every day that we were worn out by the time we finished the dinner dishes.
About charging your phone: the park website says you can charge your phone at the dock. Well, no, you cannot. There is a duplex outlet on a pole outside the ranger station, and that’s the only place electricity is available to campers since a storm took out all the charging ports at the dock. It’s a good system, though, and if you are willing to leave either your phone or a good battery pack overnight, chances are good you will have battery for your entire stay. If both plugs are in use, just wait an hour or so and you’ll have your turn.
Cayo Costa is the most ALIVE place we’ve visited. Nearly everything we picked up on the beach was alive or had something alive on it. This tiny sea star was probably about half an inch from center to tip. We saw many sea stars, all of which were alive and returned to the Gulf waters. Sea urchins were plentiful, and while they were likely doomed, we also left those on the beach unless they were empty.
It isn’t often that I will describe a trip as idyllic, but this was an idyllic trip. We spent our days like this: I would rise before the sun, walk down to the ranger station and charge my phone for a bit, listen to my wonderful book, and then walk back to camp. When Steve got up, we would walk the beach or hike the trails of Cayo Costa. The trails are nice — well marked and you can’t get lost. On Quarantine Trail, there’s a cemetery that was as peaceful as every other remote cemetery I’ve ever visited. We tried to hike the Osprey Trail, but the recent rains had flooded the trail and we could not get through. After Steve walked my feet off, we’d have dinner, do our dishes, and laugh about falling asleep before the sun set. One night, Steve took my phone down to charge and it was there the next morning when I went to get it. I did a lot of walking in the dark, and loved the free feeling of being safe and alone for hours on end.
We found this sweet bug the first time we walked to the camp store together. I just love finding painted rocks! I always leave them for the next person to enjoy, but this one was so pretty I seriously considered picking it up.
The one day that we actually sunbathed, we also gathered so many seashells that I actually ended up taking some back to the beach. The variety of shells is amazing, and we found many live shells. When I sorted them out at the campsite, I realized that even on the empty shells, some had living limpets attached, so I took those back to the beach.
The wrack line along the beach at low tide is great for seashells and other wonderful finds. I could have poked around in the seaweed all day long! Even Steve had fun picking out just the perfect specimens.
Now that we are back home and finally unpacked, I cannot stop thinking about that night sky and the feeling of safety and remoteness. I am going to do a two week trip next year, from new moon to full moon, and see what magic I can work with those gentle waves and that amazing sky. Steve will come for part of the time and bring a load of fresh groceries, and we will both come home tanned and relaxed.
Music, beautiful gardens, knowledgeable staff, and a setting that will take your breath all work together to make Bok Tower Gardens in Lake Wales a worthwhile visit. While you’re there, it’s well worth learning about their rare plant conservation program, and you may want to consider a membership as well. The Gardens have frequent special events, and provide a beautiful spot to breathe and enjoy splendid scenery in a national historic park.
Edward Bok was an immigrant to the United States from the Netherlands, and grew up to be an author and very successful editor. He edited Ladies Home Journal for 30 years, and then retired. He was an anti-suffragist, believing that women belonged in the home and should neither vote nor be educated. I won’t belabor that point, but did find it very interesting that a man so well-regarded held these antiquated views. I suppose they were not antiquated in his time.
This vista was made possible by Hurricane Charley, which knocked down trees that had overgrown to block the view. It is unusual, in central Florida, to see such large expanses of undeveloped land.
The gardens are located on the Lake Wales Ridge. Many years ago, when most of our state was under water, the Lake Wales Ridge was a series of islands. Now, the ridge comprises some of Florida’s oldest habitat, and stretches from Clermont south to Sebring. Because it is land that is high and dry, by Florida standards, the land is highly regarded by developers. The view from Bok Tower Gardens is highly unusual because there are still large expanses of undeveloped and grove lands.
In 1921, Mr. Bok bought the land at the top of the area known as Iron Mountain, and retained Frederick Law Olmstead, Jr., to design the garden. Work began digging the trenches that would house irrigation pipes, and thousands of loads of rich soil were brought in to create the right conditions for this subtropical garden. Interpretive signs throughout the garden tell the story of how the gardens and the Singing Tower came to be. The park was originally named Bok Mountain Lake Sanctuary and Singing Tower.
The tower houses a 60 bell carillon with the bells ranging in weight from 16 pounds to over TEN TONS! Every day at 1 and 3 pm, a concert is presented, and on the hour and half hour, short selections are played. Live concerts by carilloneur Geert D’hollander can be heard from October to May on Thursday-Sunday. There is a viewing area where you may watch video of D’hollander playing, but you can hear the music throughout the entire 250 acre park. The concerts include Americana, standards, and contemporary selections.
I loved the face of this statue.
The visitor center houses great exhibits providing background on the construction of the gardens, Bok’s career and philosophy, and plant conservation. There is also a good exhibit on the carillon tower and how it works.
None of the flowers pictured here are native Florida plants, but the Gardens do have a native plant area. Plantings in all areas of the Gardens were chosen to provide food and shelter for native and migrating birds.
On the day we visited, the furry buds of Japanese Magnolia (pictured above) had opened into glorious pink blooms. These flowers demand that you walk a bit slower and breathe a bit deeper to fully appreciate their beauty and aroma.
There is much more to explore at the Gardens. There is a native plant area, a children’s area with the coolest sandbox ever (it’s a snake!), an outdoor kitchen that is often used by UF/IFAS to present classes. . .oh, and the Exedra. The Exedra is, I think, my favorite feature. An Exedra is an outdoor seating area, usually semicircular in shape. The Bok Exedra is marble, and was a gift to Bok from neighbors who appreciated his garden.
Exedra
The Exedra is a great place to enjoy a shady interlude. I’ve always thought it would be fun to bring a book or some needlework and sit here for several hours. It also looks like a good spot from which to enjoy a sunset.
You are welcome to picnic on the grounds, or you can get a good lunch at the Blue Palmetto Cafe. There is a 3.5 mile hiking trail on Bok property, but outside the gardens. I’ve not yet hiked it, but it’s part of the plan for my next visit.
I may not like Bok’s view of women, but I appreciate his view of Florida and the wonders of Iron Mountain. Bok Tower Gardens is one of my favorite places to visit again and again.
Note from Pam: Happy Thanksgiving 2021! This year, I’m giving thanks for Bert King, CPA, who has generously agreed to allow me to reprint his article on My Exquisite Florida. Bert, thanks again! The very last link on the list at the end of this post is from me (Pam) . . . wherever you are celebrating, you may want to learn about who originally lived on those lands.
Once again it is time for me to promulgate Florida’s place in Thanksgiving celebrations.
As we celebrate Thanksgiving Day, we take time to remember who we are, where we came from, and for what we are thankful. As Americans, we are from many different places. We have traditions of giving thanks and feasting from our many wonderful heritages.
While enjoying your traditional Thanksgiving celebration, keep in mind that what most people think of the First Thanksgiving is not quite accurate. Most of our Thanksgiving traditions are based on the New England traditions honoring the Plymouth Colony in 1621. In fact, the first giving of thanks in a permanent European settlement in what is now the United States was not at Plymouth Colony in 1621. It was in St. Augustine, in Florida, in 1565, some 56 years earlier!! There is also some evidence that the French and Spanish celebrated feasts of thanksgiving prior to St. Augustine but those were not in permanent settlements.
By the time of Plymouth Colony in 1621, St. Augustine was a thriving city in Spanish Florida with homes, businesses, and churches, governmental buildings, and fortifications. The Spanish had even built a watch tower (lighthouse) at the entrance to the harbor. There was an established society with laws, government and trade with a variety of indigenous peoples. There were established roads and paths for travel and communication with other Spanish settlements and missions across Florida, such as Pensacola and the Mission San Luis de Apalachee in current Tallahassee. The old parish church of St. Augustine later became the Cathedral of St. Augustine. The Roman Catholic parish congregation of St. Augustine is the oldest in the continental United States, with surviving records of the parishioners dating from 1594.
I like what former History Professor Michael Gannon (UF) said, “By the time the Pilgrims came to Plymouth, St. Augustine was up for urban renewal. (Sad to learn that Professor Emeritus Gannon passed away in Spring 2017, at age 89. He was a true champion of Florida history.)
The purpose of this post has been to highlight the feast of thanksgiving in St. Augustine in 1565. If you are interested in the true circumstances and the effect on indigenous peoples in New England, see the articles at the end on the following list.
For additional reading on the real first Thanksgiving at St. Augustine, here are several articles. The first two are especially informative.
November is Manatee Awareness Month and the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission (FWC) is reminding people on the water to slow down and look out for migrating manatees this time of year. As water temperatures cool this season, manatees are naturally migrating to warmer waters around the state. Go slow and look out below to allow them to swim safely.
While manatees are large, they can be difficult to see in the water. That is why it is important to: follow guidelines and follow all manatee protection zones; look out while boating; wear polarized glasses and always give them space. Manatee protection zones are marked by waterway signs and maps of manatee protection zones are available online at MyFWC.com/Manatee by clicking on “Data and Maps.”
Manatees depend on water generally warmer than 68 degrees Fahrenheit to survive the winter, so in the fall they travel to Florida springs, power plant discharges and other warm-water sites. Remember: Disturbing manatees at warm-water sites can cause them to swim out of those protected areas and into potentially life-threatening cold water.
Tell-tale rings indicate a manatee just below the surface. Photo Credit – FWC
During the colder months, seasonal manatee zones require boaters to slow down in certain areas to prevent manatees from being injured or killed by motorboats or personal watercrafts. Boat strikes continue to be a major threat to Florida manatees. FWC law enforcement officers are on patrol in state waters to inform boaters of the seasonal manatee speed zones and take appropriate enforcement actions. Boaters are reminded to abide by the regulatory signs they see on the water.
Physically handling a distressed or stranded manatee might cause more harm. Instead, report injured, distressed, sick or dead manatees to the FWC’s Wildlife Alert Hotline at 888-404-FWCC (3922) or dialing #FWC or *FWC on a cellphone so trained responders can assist. The FWC continues to investigate a high level of manatee mortalities and respond to manatee rescues along the Atlantic coast of Florida. The FWC takes manatee conservation seriously by actively implementing science-based conservation measures that are making a difference for manatees and habitat. Learn more about how officials are responding to this event by visiting MyFWC.com/Manatee and clicking on “Learn More”.
“It remains critically important people be aware of manatees while on the water as we continue to work with partners to monitor and respond to the ongoing mortality event along Florida’s east coast,” said Ron Mezich, Imperiled Species Management Section Leader. ““We are continuing to explore a variety of options to assist manatees and the goal for the FWC and our partners continues to be restoring the Indian River Lagoon to a healthy state. In the end, that is the solution that will benefit manatees and other wildlife.”
Resources for boaters, educators and other interested members of the public are available at MyFWC.com/Manatee. What should you do if you see a manatee? The Viewing Guidelines page provides helpful tips on respectfully viewing manatees, additional guidelines for boat and personal watercraft operators, and information on what you can do to help these amazing aquatic mammals.
Manatee snout. Photo Credit – FWC
Are you interested in supporting the FWC’s manatee research, rescue and management efforts? You can purchase a Florida manatee license plate, or donate $5 to receive a collectable FWC manatee decal. Both are available from your local Tax Collector’s office.
